Here we are at last

Hey fam! This here is my goodbye to all of y'all who have so faithfully followed my attempts to keep y'all up to date. I've included below my final reflection essay that I hope ties up the trip in 1400 words. Thank you for the encouraging comments. I hope y'all stay well.

            Imagine an arch. Not just any arch, this is a Roman triumphal arch. It can be a single arch, or perhaps a more elaborate triple arch, or even (if you’re feeling bold) a quadrifrons arch spanning the intersection of two bustling streets. Now add to this arch all the trimmings required: sturdy columns projecting from the main body; sculptural decoration on the bottom, the top, the inside, and wherever else it might be required (all original, none of that “borrow and re-sculpt” crap); and a gargantuan inscription at the top announcing your architectural achievement to the world.

            Now jump forward several hundred years. You are long deceased, your civilization has crumbled, and your arch has found itself in a state of incredible disrepair. Vegetation has begun to creep up the side of the arch, and vines wind around the columns and snake through the sculpture like some kind of vegetable giant squid. Birds have made their homes in the various niches and holes (newly developed due to the invasion of flora). The deepest cut sculptures have fallen off, and the figures have been rubbed down beyond recognition. The vines and plants now growing free have begun to dig and open up cracks running the length and breadth of the structure, now threatening to succumb to Mother Nature and disintegrate.

            But all is not lost. A team of archaeologists has noticed the rapid deterioration of your arch, and has taken it upon themselves to restore and repair your creation to its original glory. They face many questions from skeptics about the value of spending money on such a “useless” project. In reply, they eloquently relate the arch’s historical significance and artistic value: It is a magnificent achievement of our fellow man, so let us at the very least use this arch to celebrate the potential of humankind. Eventually, they are awarded some money to begin. First, they cleared the concrete of plant material, and then set to work patching up the cracks, clearly marking what was newly supporting the old. After this work was completed, professional restorers went to town on the sculpture, filling out the figures and replacing broken limbs (again done through tasteful anastolisis). When it is all done, the restored arch stands proud once again, surrounded by admiring tourists who gasp and gape at the splendor, craftsmanship, and scale, unaware of the previous state of disrepair and the work put into the restoration. This arch is like my experience on the Classics Semester Abroad (bear with me, this will make sense soon).

            Let us start from the beginning, as all good stories are wont. Just as an architect would have carefully planned, assembled materials, measured, double and triple checked his measurements, and set out every little detail before beginning work, I spent the weeks preceding this trip with great anticipation, carefully sorting the necessary books, articles, clothes, etc. I attempted to plan for every contingency and every detail. I knew the frame of the trip and the plan, but I had no way of knowing how the “plan” would manifest itself on the day-to-day. I could rattle off necessary dates, places, books, articles, and site names, but this superficial knowledge, like our architect’s theoretical plan for his arch, was yet to be filled in with the hands on experience.

             The trip began, and very quickly I began to grasp what I had gotten myself into, and I loved it. Constant adaptation was the rule (16-hour train ride? No problem). As we laid the historical and archaeological foundation (I’m committed to this building metaphor) for our trip in London and Egypt, I gained perspective on what we would need to give mentally, physically, and emotionally. Perhaps the most important lesson was that one can never plan for every contingency, and therefore quick thinking, a calm attitude, and optimism would soon become my most valuable tools. Not only have these skills served to get me un-lost in an unfamiliar city on this trip, but they will also be important in the future, whether used to effectively lead a classroom, or in any other leadership position. One thing this trip has taught me is this: I am perfectly comfortable handling the unpredictable arena of a high-school classroom.

            Now the trip was in full swing. We knew the expectations, and we settled into a routine (of sorts) by the time we got to Greece and Turkey (if you want the arch, now the arch fully built and withstanding the test of time, pristine and glorious). With a few exceptions (Delphi, road to Sparta), the trip through Greece and Turkey was more a test of endurance than adaptability, as I had already settled into the mindset of expecting anything that might come our way. I think one thing I gained from this time was an increased love of the natural world, due to our time spent climbing ancient structures and mountains, and playing ultimate Frisbee wherever possible. I have never seen such beautiful, severe, powerful country, and it helped alter my perspective. As important as I think I am to this world, and as vital to my existence I may think one more A may be, the truth is that I am just one small part of a larger world, and my value as a person may be better expressed in other ways, which cannot be measured by As and Bs.

            The trip caught up with me, however, shortly after we got to Rome. Just as time and nature wear away at our steadfast arch, fatigue and the busy schedule left me feeling like a 1960s Ford with four flat tires. From this period, I was certainly reminded that in every endeavor (CSA, job, etc.) there are low points. But I came to a point when I realized that I could use my state of low emotional and physical energy in a useful manner: for reflection and self-assessment. There is great value for accurate self-assessment in any profession, but I think it will be especially valuable in teaching, where it will be detrimental, not only to myself, but also to my students, if I cannot recognize when and why I become emotionally and physically empty.

            So what was I to do at this point? My solution: rest, and think positively. I made myself find something I enjoyed for a few days until I crawled out of my funk. Especially after Easter Break, when I was able to recover some energy (i.e. restore the cracks in the metaphorical arch), I felt almost new again. I could not lie about how I had been feeling up to that point, but that was good; being honest with why I felt bad and how I got to that point was a valuable tool in the last month of the trip, in that I was able to recognize the warning signs before it was too late.

            I do not want to beat a dead horse with this arch metaphor, so let me sum up what I’m trying to say through a restored triumphal arch. I began this trip with a lot of energy, and I thought I could plan out every detail. However, I discovered how to adapt as I encountered unpredictable complications. Eventually, I began to wear down, but found a way to build myself up and make our time valuable when I was feeling otherwise. Now at the end, this trip has become something I never imagined it could have been, just as magnificent but different. Now, I can talk to people about the triumphs and setbacks, and emphatically point to the lessons I’ve gleaned as a result. I have learned much from this intense study of Classics, but please note: those lessons I have mentioned here are not particularly Classics specific. The skills I have gained and improved upon are more valuable than dates and allusions, because they will allow me to more effectively comprehend and maneuver through this world, no matter what I am doing in two, ten, or twenty years. And although some of us will never have anything to do with Augustus, Trajan, Pericles or Solon after this trip, I think this is the main lesson that any of us can get out of a study of Classics: how to think, perceive, understand, and adapt to the world in which we live.

Ciao!

When in Rome...

So here’s my next installment of my regular updates (it was a nice thought, wasn’t it?). We’re now in Rome, and it is our first free day in two weeks (don’t…make me…leave…the hotel…). It’s been a while, so here’s the scoop on the past few weeks. We finished up in Catellemare di Stabia, on the southern coast of the Bay of Naples. We finished the week by seeing the Archaeological Museum in Naples, Roman seaside villas in Stabiae, temples at Paestum, and a buffalo cheese production facility. No joke, Asiatic water buffalo are pretty cool, and they make great mozzarella cheese (and some decent looking buffalo skin bags, belts, etc). I spent our time touring the facilities plotting how I was going to smuggle one home to Davidson in order to make it our new mascot (or it could come to Austin…the dogs would love having a new playmate). C’mon, it wouldn’t be that hard to take care of…all they did at the farm was sit around and eat…not a bad life if you ask me.

Then we took a ferry to Palermo, on Sicily. After two or three days on Sicily, I became convinced that we had found the most beautiful countryside in the world. Every square inch of this island is pure emerald green (apart from the peak of Mt. Etna, the most active volcano in the world), and the landscape gently undulates in all directions, as if to imitate the surrounding Mediterranean. The weather was crystal clear, with few clouds (except for the smoke issuing from Mt. Etna), and the brightest baby blue sky. We traveled the whole extent of the island, driving down the east coast to Syracuse (where we climbed yet another castle after visiting yet another ancient theater), along the southern coast (seeing more rocks that used to be houses), and ended up in Marinella, where we spent a free day at the beach (looking across the water to Libya, maybe an overnight ferry ride away). Then we looped our way back to Palermo, went to a museum, and caught a ferry to Rome.

If you think our trip has been busy up to this point, our time in Rome was like CSA on steroids. We have regularly pulled 8-hour days in a scramble to cover as much as possible (it’s Culture Week in Rome, so everything was free). It’s been one giant blur of ancient sites, churches, gelato, and pizza. Oh yeah, and we still have reading…and journals…and perhaps a little time to sleep sometime in there. I have to admit, that first week in Rome was actually the hardest week of the trip for me. I hate to say it, but as soon as we got to Rome, I began to wish I were home (this actually hadn’t happened at all up to this point). Last Thursday, Dr. Becker flew over to a) take us to the Etruscan sites/museums around the city, and b) give Dr. Neumann a chance to catch her breath (notice that we are yet to get a break haha). It was an incredibly enjoyable time for all of us, a time, which included some beautiful excursions to Cerveteri and Orvieto.

After all that, it finally feels like we’re all settled in, and now we have a nice break over Easter to try and recover for the last few weeks. We hit day 100 yesterday, and I would be lying if I denied that we are all ready to be home. For myself, I am just trying to finish strong. It is during these times when it becomes more difficult to stay positive, selfless, and loving, that God shows us His grace and provision as He picks up our slack. It is easy to give in to lingering resentment and fatigue (I’ve already noticed this tendency in myself), but God has remained faithful to me when I’ve given him infinitely more reasons to turn His back on me. Therefore, I want to do more than just limp across the finish line; I want to do more than just make it to May 12^th. Each day needs to be a renewed effort to love others in an extraordinary way, and to give of myself to serve their needs, in all things consider others’ better than myself (Philippians 2:3). Admittedly, it is hard to see this carried out in my actions, but I seek improvement everyday, and I am dependent on the Lord to supply the means to do so. It is only through Him that such a transformation can be accomplished. SOLI DEO GLORIA.

Be back soon (I promise, I'll write another one in a couple of days to expand on our time in Rome)! 

It's Been A While...

Hey y’all! So I’m back after a couple of weeks of repression under Turkish censors. Seriously, Turkey has blocked Blogspot. It was really bizarre…I guess the Turkish government doesn’t like free speech. Who knew?

So, we’re now in Italy, and I’m back online. So for my first post in a couple of weeks, I’ll update y’all on Turkey, and give a quick idea of what we’re doing this week around the Bay of Naples.

Turkey started off cold, rainy, and windy; I prepared myself for the worst. However, though it stayed cold, rainy and windy, we had a very enjoyable time. This may have been due to the fact that we had, at most sites, free reign to scramble and roam amongst the ruins (unlike in Greece, where we were whistled at for wrestling in a wide open space at Olympia). So, we took full advantage of the opportunity: ultimate Frisbee at Sardis and Assos, climbing down mountains (literally) at Assos and Pergamum, climbing up open ladders to the roofs of structures at Sardis, hiking through open cow-fields (complete with patties) to see a half excavated stadium at Magnesia, and scaling just about every theater we could lay our hands on. It was the adult version of a five year old monkeying around a playscape. And we did have some good weather at Assos, where we stayed for two days. Oh by the way, our hotel was waterfront, looking off at the island of Lesbos, and we had beautiful sunsets. On the second day, our free day, we found an open field (complete with rocks and the droppings of various fauna) and played Ultimate Frisbee for two and a half hours (yes, we’re getting course credit for this…it’s a fair trade off for the nine hour days we’ve pulled in southern Italy so far. More on that below).

Then we got to Istanbul, which felt like another country entirely from the rest of Turkey. Yes, the incessant crowd of Germans persisted (they love that place), but the big city feel was something we had missed up to that point. Our hotel was perfectly placed with a view of both Hagia Sophia and the Blue Mosque, two of the most impressive structures in the city. Although the rain resumed, we made it a fun time, seeing the Grand Bazaar and famous spice market, as well as the spectacular Byzantine mosaics and structures throughout the city.

And now we are in Castellemare di Stabia, on the Bay of Naples (we once again have a beautiful ocean view…there seems to be a theme here). So far, we have walked all over Pompeii (remember those nine hour days I was telling you about), Herculaneum (where we got to see a bath complex that is closed to the public), and the cave of the Sybil at Cumae (the Sybil was a prophetess, who famously tells Aeneas how to get to the Underworld in Vergil’s Aeneid). Pompeii and Herculaneum, for those of you unfamiliar with the tale, were destroyed in the eruption of Mt. Vesuvius in 79 A.D, Herculaneum by the lava flow and Pompeii by the ash cloud that fell on top of the city. Excavations in these two cities have provided classicists with some of the most complete information regarding the daily lives of the ancient Romans. We have seen excavated and restored homes with frescoes still on the wall and mosaics on the floor. Inside the homes are signs of everyday life: furnaces in the kitchen, latrines, drainage from the shallow pool in the front rooms, broken staircases, bed frames. In Herculaneum there remain carbonized wooden doors and window shutters. On display in some of the houses are casts of the remains of people (and animals) excavators found, their bodies carbonized by the lava that flowed down the mountain at up to 60 mph.

As for myself, I’m still lovin’ the experience, as overwhelming as it can be. There’s something very liberating about not living in the same place for more than a few days, after which you pack everything up and take your life with you to the next stop. It’s liberating in that my life right now fits into a neat package; I have clear goals each day, and there is only a limited amount of distraction. It’s not a life for everyone at all times, but for this short period, it has been invaluable and extremely enjoyable. It has been affirmed that I am a goal-oriented person, who does not let silly things like hunger or fatigue get in the way if the day is not over. This can be a good thing, but I have learned that I need to be aware of when I’m pushing myself past my limits physically (a tendency of mine I’ve seen crop up quite a bit). This carries over beyond just myself. If I do go on to teach (and this applies to any leadership position), it will be important for me to be aware of my pace in order that I not exhaust those whom I’m attempting to lead.

That’s a pretty good summary, I think. More to come soon. Please send feedback if there’s anything specific y’all wanna hear about.

Back to the Grind

Hey fam! Spring Break is now over and I can settle into a slower pace. Yes, a slower pace. Once my parents told me that our itinerary in Rome was essentially up to me, we were up and going all day, every day. It was incredibly fun, and I think they had a wonderful time (I did!), but it made out pace on the CSA look like a vacation. In Rome, we saw countless churches (they all blur together into one ever-changing kaleidoscope of fresco, marble, and gold) and ate way too much food (one word: gnocchi). Oh yeah, it also rained a little. You know that image of Rome that you see in the movies as eternally sunny and beautiful? Let's just say that no one films a movie in Rome in the winter. We had rain every single day, with the one exception being the only day that we did not spend in Rome. Overall, and despite the rain, it was a most enjoyable experience, and I cannot wait to go back. Oh wait, that's only a month away :)

So...that brings us to the present. The CSA is back in session. We are sitting in the Athens airport, awaiting a flight to Istanbul and eventually to Antalya, in the southwest region of Turkey. Personally, I have no idea what to expect. Turkey will be a completely new experience, one which past trips have thoroughly enjoyed, so I have high hopes. Perhaps this is a Classical influence escaping, but part of me sees this part of our trip as a kind of Argonautic journey to the mysterious East, the customs and culture of which is shrouded in rumor and whispers. Ok, maybe that's pushing it, but I've never been, so what do I know about Turkey? In many ways I'm sure it will be very different from my expectations and customs I'm familiar with. However, it is also equally possible that there will be more similarities that I expect. As Herodotus and Aeschylus showed us earlier in the semester, even the most foreign of peoples share a certain amount in common with us. Either way, I coming to Turkey with an open mind, willing to identify the value of a society that is uniquely rich in its own history and culture. I don't think I could have gotten this far into this semester without being willing to accept the new and different.

I have heard from a couple of sources that I should be more frequent in my communications, so I will try to provide updates on a more regular basis. No promises (we never know the Internet situation), but I will make a more concerted attempt to give y'all more posts. Please let me know if there's anything specific y'all want to hear about. Until then, take care and God bless!

Greece comes to an end...

Hey fam! I promised a new blog post soon, so here we go…

I believe I caught y’all up on the trip through Delphi. At Delphi, we saw the site of the ancient oracle, then liked it so much, we decided to stay another day (actually, our reservations in Litochoro got wonky). So, we drove straight from Delphi to Thessaloniki (with a short stop in Dion. No really, we had one hour to see a huge site. Dr. Neumann nearly had to run behind us with a whip to get us to move fast enough).

Thessaloniki is the second largest city in Greece, and I for one was unprepared for being back in a big city after staying in places like Delphi. Oh yeah, Thessaloniki is also just about as far north as you can get. Remember, we were in Sparta in the far south not five days earlier. We’ve covered a lot of ground (and it doesn’t stop there). We spent four days in Thessaloniki, saw the Macedonian tombs (including that of Philip II, Alexander’s father) at Vergina, saw a museum at Pella (former capital of Macedon; the site was closed due to no money for guards), the archaeological museum at Thessaloniki, and we had a free day. We listened to two lectures from professors at the university in town. One was on Greek theater, and the other on an overview of Greek history in Macedon. From Thessaloniki, we drove all day, stopping in Thermopylae on the way to reenact the movie “300” (Ultimate Frisbee style; no one was too badly hurt), ultimately getting to our hotel in the quiet mountain town of Makrinitsa. This town put all other quaint Greek towns to shame; we couldn’t even drive out bus into town, so we grabbed our backpacks and trekked through town to our hotel. Gotta say, it was worth the effort. We walked around town after nightfall, when a cool mist settled over the town, which was absolutely deserted. It made one feel like the only people in existence, with the clouds obscuring the valley below…very peaceful (and maybe a little frightening, not knowing if the Greek counterpart of Jack the Ripper was gonna jump out of the fog).

The next day we got going early and made it back to Athens. So to recount, we drove from the farthest north Greece to the southern end of Attika in two days. It felt like all we did was drive. Drive. And Drive. Our double-decker bus certainly felt like home, but after that trip down to Athens, we were glad to say goodbye to that bus. For a little over a week now, we’ve hit the high points in Athens: the Acropolis, the Areopagus, the Pnyx, the Agropolis Museum, the agora (with special tour of places no tourist is allowed, given by the director of the excavations), the keraimikos, the island of Aegina, the Piraeus, the Roman agora, the Olympeion and Arch of Hadrian, the Plaka (shopping district)…tired yet? I’m not.

There have been times when I have felt so overwhelmed that it seems I will never be able to remember any singular detail or place. But then there are moments…for instance, at the Acropolis Museum. We were walking through a collection of marble statues, when I saw it. Kritios Boy. Open any art history textbook and this little three foot tall marble statue will attract more attention than you might think any piece of art deserves. Does it sound weird for me to say that I stood there speechless for a full minute, then proceeded to grin and (yes, I’ll admit it) giggle like a little kid for the next 10-15 minutes straight. Ok, yeah, that’s weird. But let me put it this way. Kritios Boy represents one of the most monumental shifts in the history of art, a shift of a few inches of the hips. Here’s what I mean: before Kritios Boy, marble figures of humans show the body in strict vertical frontal stance, or in awkward stances that force a real human being to throw a hip out of joint to replicate. In Kritios Boy, the artist has FOR THE FIRST TIME represented accurate transfer of weight onto one leg, indicated in the tilting hips. Ok, I’ll stop now…

I’ll mercifully spend some time not talking about Classics or art history, and describe how our time in Athens has been. Athens is great. The people are very friendly, especially if you throw in a thank you (efcharisto) or a cheerful hello (yassas) every so often. We’re in a busy tourist district (at least it’ll be busy in the summer), so there are lots of good restaurants and shops. The city is spread out very wide across the plain of Attika, stretching from the water up and onto the mountains, a fact that was easy to appreciate from the Acropolis. There is always something to do, but if you want to be truly Greek, you’ll spend much of your afternoon just hangin’ out in the nearest café. Really. For hours. Just talking. There’s just not the same sense of urgency that is so prevalent in the United States (debt crisis?), which makes living in the city a very nice experience. Athens was the perfect culmination of our time in Greece, both for the subject matter (nice to have the Parthenon be the memory we're left with...by the way, we can see the Parthenon from our hotel...every morning...breakfast on the roof), and for the more relaxed, settled period that transitions into Spring Break.

Having said that, I’m ready for Italy, which for me will be tomorrow, the beginning of Spring Break. Mom, Dad, love y'all, see y’all soon, have a safe flight and don’t forget the peanut butter J. Be ready to do some walking!